Surfers Return to Tahiti to surf World's Most Dangerous Wave

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August 16, 2012

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Surfers today return to Teahupoo, the scene of
2011's historic 'Code Red ' swell.

On August 27, 2011 the surfing world gathered in Tahiti to witness one of the sport's most anticipated annual events - the Billabong Pro at the legendary surf break Teahupoo. On this day, however, the contest was actually called off because the surf was TOO big, with waves in excess of 30 feet.

In the realm of competitive surfing the general rule is the bigger the waves, the better. Yet Teahupoo (Prn: Ch'oh-Poo) is unique in its power and savagery, channeling the ocean's energy from deep waters surrounding Tahiti before depositing it squarely on shallow, sharp coral reef. Many consider it the planet's most dangerous wave.

It breaks fast with unmatched intensity making it virtually impossible for a surfer to paddle into, and subsequently catch, a wave under his own power when the swell exceeds a certain size.

Last August 27 was such a day. With the formal contest postponed until the swell size actually backed off, a brave few ventured out with the help of jet skis to be towed into the three story high walls of water unloading on the reef. The ensuing session saw some of the most extreme rides in the history of surfing.

"Guys pulled into some waves and ate it on some waves...you just don't think guys are going to survive." 11-time world champion Kelly Slater said of the day. "But guys were popping up (to the surface and surviving)."

A film dubbed Code Red documented the unprecedented surf session named after the fact that the Tahitian government placed the entire coastline under a code red advisory prohibiting craft from entering the water. Only the surfers disobeyed.

"I can never get the pictures out of my head," said Australian pro surfer Joel Parkinson. "That day was amazing."

Among the surfers who risked their lives for the thrill of victory were Australia's Laurie Towner, Dylan Longbottom and American Nathan Fletcher. Fletcher who hails from San Clemente, CA won the Billabong XXLBig Wave Awards "Ride of the Year" for his efforts - despite the fact he actually wiped out.

In describing the moment, Fletcher said:

"I remember thinking I'm not making it. This is the worst position I could be in.

When I came up I was checking everything out and realized I was ok and thought that wasn't so bad. I'm alive."

The world's best return to the Tahiti this week for 2012 Billabong Pro, which kicks off today. The event is comprised of four days of competition which may take place any day during the course of a 10 day waiting period. The waiting period allows event organizers to choose the best swell, weather and wind conditions.

To follow the action and live webcast visit BillabongPro.com.

- James Sullivan

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