Photo: ©Ed Grant grantsgraphics.com
This is a story about the history of Maverick’s, and the surfers who ride the giant waves.  This special eight part series focuses on how the wave was discovered, and features contributions from some of the world’s greatest surfers sharing their experiences surfing Maverick’s and what they do when they’re not riding one of the world’s biggest waves.  Every Wednesday surfers including Kelly Slater, Greg Long, Jeff Clark, Tom Curren, Grant “Twiggy” Baker, Peter Mel, Matt Ambrose, Ryan Seelbach and Grant Washburn will provide detailed insights into one of the biggest waves in the world, and what these surfers do when they’re not busy chasing some of the ocean’s most powerful waves.

Click here for Maverick’s Untamed Part 1.

Click here for Maverick’s Untamed Part 2.

Click here for Maverick's Untamed Part 3.

Click here for Maverick's Untamed Part 4.

Click here for Maverick's Untamed Part 5.

Out of all the legends who have conquered Northern California’s behemoth wave, there is one who has transcended Maverick’s beyond the rest.  And surprisingly, his hometown is not anywhere near Princeton-by-the-Sea, but rather the Southern California town of San Clemente, California.

Greg Long started surfing in smaller waves, winning the 2001 NSSA National Championships and securing a relatively lucrative endorsement deal from surf industry brand Ocean Pacific (OP) that allowed to him to chase giant waves without financial inhibitions.  Unfortunately, OP became an exclusive distribution partner with retail chain Walmart, and the company ended their core surfing roots by removing their surf team and using faux celebrities to model their clothing.

Greg Long was without a sponsor.  Having won the Red Bull Big Wave Africa contest at Dungeons, South Africa in 2003, Long would routinely amaze fans of big wave surfing and his peers alike by charging on the world’s largest and most dangerous waves.  Long once embarked to Cortes Bank, one of the largest waves in the world located over a 100 miles west of Southern California in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, by riding half the way on a Personal Watercraft (PWC).  The harrowing journey showed everyone just how committed Long was to big wave surfing, especially given the lack of financial support from the surf industry.

In essence, Long has become the unofficial ambassador to big wave surfing, and rightfully so.  Long is the only surfer to win all three prestigious big wave surfing contests in the history of the sport.  Long was victorious at the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational in 2009 (Kelly Slater finished in second), the Maverick’s Surf Contest in 2008 and the aforementioned  Red Bull Big Wave Africa contest at Dungeons in 2003.  Long’s competitive accomplishments are unmatched, he handles himself incredibly well, and all in all there is an overwhelming consensus amongst his peers that Long is a genuine, good person.

Case in point.  The final heat of the 2008 Maverick’s Surf Contest.

Long was one of the favorites to win the contest.  He finished second in 2005, and everyone at that point recognized Long for the amazing surfer he is.  Yet Long made an interesting and selfless proposition just for the sake of surfing freely.  Long proposed to his five fellow competitors in the finals, Grant Washburn, Tyler Smith, Jamie Sterling and Grant “Twiggy” Baker a pact to split the winnings regardless of the outcome.  They agreed, and the finals of the 2008 Maverick’s Surf Contest became one of the most exciting moments in the history of Maverick’s.

Yet Long got his start surfing big waves like most other surfers.  “I surfed Maverick’s for the first time when I was 19 years old.  For years I had seen photographs and watched nearly every movie out there in complete awe of the place,” said Long.  “In 2001, I met Grant Washburn down in South Africa at which point he extended the invitation to come up and surf it.   The following winter I did.

“Maverick’s is one of, if not the heaviest and scariest surf breaks in the world.   From its immense size and power, to the cold water, currents, sharks, it demands the most of your as a surfer both physically and mentally.  I physically trained extensively before I surfed it for the first time.  I also studied every second of footage I could find so as to had a better understanding of how the wave breaks.  But even when I felt ready to surf it, I didn't jump straight into a big day,” continued Long.  “The first time I surfed it, it was barely breaking, but big enough for me to get a better feel for the place.  I gradually worked my way up surfing it on slightly larger days.  It wasn't until the contest in 2003 that I had my first proper 20 foot plus day.  I can vividly recall every wave I rode that day. “

Long considers his victory at Maverick’s to be one of his greatest accomplishments.   “Maverick’s is probably the biggest achievement of my life, from a competition standpoint,” said Long.  “There are three big wave paddle contests each year (Maverick's Surf Contest, The Eddie and Red Bull Big Wave Africa, which has since shut down) and Maverick's goes hand-in-hand with The Eddie in terms of prestige. The victory was incredible. It's something I've strived for since I was first invited years ago. I've dream about a victory like that since I was a kid.”

Long did eventually get an official surf sponsor.  Billabong now supports Long as one of their team riders.  Long’s good friend, fellow Billabong teammate and 2006 Maverick’s Surf Contest champion Grant “Twiggy” Baker, who hails from South Africa, agrees that Long is at the top of his class.  “He's the top big wave surfer in the world,” said Twiggy.  “No one else compares right now.”

“That is quite a compliment, and I return it right back to him,” said Long, when told about Twiggy’s comment.  “When it comes to paddling and tow surfing, I honestly don't know many surfers who are as constant as Twiggy.  I think that's why we get along so well.  We both have the same goals and missions.  There are other incredible big wave surfers though.  Shane Dorian comes to mind.  How can anyone say there's someone better than him?  There are a lot of other people who deserves just as much credit.  Jamie Sterling is also really on it in terms of chasing big swells.  The active pursuit of big swells never stops.”

Maverick’s hasn’t been without its fair share of tragedy.  Hawaiian greats Mark Foo and Sion Milosky passed away surfing Maverick’s, 17 years apart.  It’s a humble reminder to Maverick’s surfers of just how powerful a wave it can be.

Click here for Maverick's Untamed Part 7.